+ General

AKC Pupdate Newsletter

Whole Dog Journal

+ Nutrition

Dog Food Advisor - Labradors

Nutritional Guidelines for Puppies

+ Behavior & Training

iSpeakDog Body Language Gallery

The Other End of the Leash Blog

AVSAB Dominance Theory Myths

Your Dog’s Friend

The Fearful Dog

+ Children & Dogs

StopThe77

Dog Gone Safe Bite Prevention

Family Paws Parent Education

The Family Dog Blog

+ Behaviors to Expect

Your puppy may begin to react negatively to new things. Their newfound curiousity is matched with an increase in apprehension toward strange items, animals, people, and environments. You may see your puppy become more cautious or tentative in their approach to things. Fear can also manifest as barking, lunging, growling, and boldness.

Your Puppy...

• Has a short attention span
• Will tire quickly and sleep a lot
• Is eager to learn and to play
• Is beginning to show personality and temperment
• Is incredibly impressionable and is beginning to form lifelong behaviors and associations
• Is acclimating to a human environment after separting from his canine family

+ How to Manage Behaviors & Support Development

Basic manners training should continue (or begin, if not started) through this stage. Housetraining can be successful at this stage. Be sure to encourage healthy chewing behaviors and teach bite inhibition as your puppy is teething. Puppies are generally very playful during this stage; harness playtime as a learning and bonding opportunity. Follow a structured routine and reward calm behaviors. Every event in your routine (feeding, opening the door, etc.) is a training opportunity. Integrating training in this way is more effective for some puppies than formal / structured training time as their attention spans are short.

+ Focus Areas for Training & Socialization

During this time puppies should be exposed to as many new people, animals, stimuli and environments as can be achieved safely and without causing overstimulation manifested as excessive fear, withdrawal or avoidance behavior. Introduce your puppy to new things - people, noises, cars, appliances, textures, animals, environments, smells, etc. Your puppy needs positive experiences to lay the groundwork for being a well-adjusted adult.

This is also a good time to enroll in puppy group classes. Waiting to enroll until 12 weeks does not allow the puppy to learn during this critical period and can result in lifelong behavioral problems. For this reason, the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior believes that it should be the standard of care for puppies to receive such socialization before they are fully vaccinated. In general, puppies can start puppy socialization classes as early as 8 weeks of age. Puppies should receive a minimum of one set of vaccines at least 7 days prior to the first class and a first deworming. They should be kept up-to-date on vaccines throughout the class.

+ Physical & Mental Development Occuring

Your puppy's body is growing rapidly; he or she is physically vulnerable and a bit clumsy! Avoid over-exercise which can damage your puppy's growth plates and joint development. Expect your puppy to need a lot of sleep at this stage and to tire easilly. Their brain is developing quickly and this is an ideal time for training and learning. Nutrition needs are vital at this stage. Additionally, your puppy may be teething (or on the tail end of bringing in their baby teeth). Be patient with housetraining; puppies are just beginning to control their bladders and will need to eliminiate every few hours and after playing, eating/drinking, sleeping, or spending time in their crate. Your pup is physically prone to have accidents and is unlikely to be able to make it through the night without urinating.

+ Behaviors to Expect

Your puppy is observing humans and animals in the home... and trying to clarify and resolve where he fits in the group. Your puppy may try to determine what activities are done when or begin to question authority.

Your Puppy...

• Is showing less caution and more curiosity
• Is energetic (beware overexertion as this can lead to behavioral problems)
• Still needs lots of sleep
• May be easily overexcited / hit threshold quickly
• Needs routine and structure
• Is experiencing teething that may cause discomfort, aggitation, and innate desire to chew

+ How to Manage Behaviors & Support Development

Structure and consistency is key at this stage. Your puppy has either learned your routine or is just walking into it (depending on when they came into your home) and it is important to stick to it through this period.

Continue to socialize your puppy. You are nearing the end of the critical socialization window which cannot be truly compensated for if missed.

+ Focus Areas for Training & Socialization

Be especially aware of what your body language and tone communicates to your puppy; ensure your whole family is consistent. Continue to teach bite inhibition and supervise closely around children. Monitor your puppy closely to learn what causes them to become overexcited or to hit threshold. Ensure your puppy is getting mental stimulation as well as physical stimulation.

Your puppy is learning to get things from you (attention, play, food). Be sure that you offer these things only when you want to or within your established routine - not every time your puppy asks. The only thing you should be responsive to every time they ask is taking them outside to eliminate. This helps your puppy understand where they fall in your household hierarchy.

+ Physical & Mental Development Occuring

Your puppy is likely tall and lanky. He has better control over his bladder and may be able to start making it through the night without needing to eliminate. Your puppy's adult teeth are starting to come in. You may notice excessive mouthing, incessant chewing, bruised or red gums, and missing teeth. You should be completing puppy vaccination cycles toward the end of this phase. Your puppy is likely putting on weight at a quick pace; be sure to keep up with feeding and nutrition guidelines and increase portions as recommended by your veterinarian.

+ Behaviors to Expect

This stage can last from a few days to several weeks and can occur anytime between 4 and 8 months of age. You may experience flight instinct concurrently with other stages.

Your puppy is "testing his wings". You may notice an abrupt change in behavior... the puppy that has been following you around and observing you closely for weeks or months is now beginning to stray.

Your Puppy...

• May ignore cues to stay close or come when called
• May not respond to his name
• Might loose interest in activities he once enjoyed (e.g. fetch)
• Is becoming more independent
• May try to "take off" through doors, over fences, off leash, or out of cars, etc.

+ How to Manage Behaviors & Support Development

Leash your puppy even if he has been trustworthy in the past. Recall is never guaranteed - but especially during this phase. Reinforce coming when called with high value rewards and lots of praise; never ask your puppy to come and then scold him or make him leave the fun activity he was just doing (you want him to know coming to you means good things - every time). Be especially cautious around doors, gates, fences, etc. to prevent a creative escape.

Reinforce independent behaviors that you like. For example, if your puppy takes a toy and quietly chews it on his mat in another room when he usually sits beneath your feet.

+ Focus Areas for Training & Socialization

You may experience sudden disobedience or challenging of authority that you have not seen before (or that is more acute than before). This is the time when obedience schools get most of their calls. Puppies that have not been socialized and trained will take a different path than those that have. It is because of this stage that preventative socialization is so important - because it can be so hard to correct at this stage through all of the physiological changes your puppy is experiencing.

+ Physical & Mental Development Occuring

On top of everything else your puppy is going through at this stage, they are still aggressively teething, growing physically, and developing mentally.

+ Behaviors to Expect

If you skipped straight to this section because you heard the horror stories about the notorious teenage phase - you're not alone. This is one of the most difficult stages of growth and development for puppy parents... and when some start to question their decision about adopting a puppy.

While challenging, this stage can also be fun, entertaining, and rewarding. Keep in mind that you will get out of this phase (and every phase of your puppy's development) what you put into it. Adolescence can last longer in larger breeds, but if you are patient in reinforcing good behaviors and habits - as well as diligent in responsible socialization - you will have a well adjusted adult dog for a decade or more ahead. It does not last forever and it is important to remember that most of the behaviors your puppy ehxibits during this phase are managable and will not last forever (when addressed appropriately).

Your puppy may look more like an adult now, but is stil very much a child in an adult/teen body. This is also a fear period in which your puppy is impressionable and sensitive to trauma and overwhelming situations.

Your Puppy...

• May become more reactive
• May become protective or territorial
• Might exhibit "teenage flakiness"
• Show signs of apprehension or timidity
• Is thinking freely and acting independently
• Is still energetic and does not tire as easily
• Excitable and eager to explore/learn
• Is continually reassessing his place in the group
• Is more likely to rely on his instinctual urges

+ How to Manage Behaviors & Support Development

For Your Sanity: Be realistic about your expectations during this phase - and try to appreciate the hilarity of the teenage puppy antics you are likely to experience. Understand that you may observe some lapses in the training you have been working on - and even some apprehension or cautious behaviors in your pup despite good socialization work up to this point. This does not mean your puppy "forgot" everything you taught them - but adolescents do appear to "brain dump" or have "selective hearing" at this stage. Do not be complacent; remain vigilant with safety precautions (closing doors, using a long lead instead of allowing off-leash freedom) while your puppy's behavior is unpredictable. Enjoy watching your puppy's personality shape and present itself as they settle into their adult disposition.

For Your Puppy: Be patient and understanding. Your puppy may be pushing boundaries and the behavior is not as "cute" or tolerable as it once was. He is now bigger and stronger; therefore more destructive. However it is extremely important to avoid extremes in your respose to your dog and to remain consistent. You are still building trust between you - and just as a teenage human does not always understand their emotional or physical response to some changes - neither does your dog (and on top of it, your dog does not speak English).

Note your puppy's triggers to this point and be aware of them. Remain calm and positive; your puppy takes his cues from you - whether you are deliberately signaling them or not. You may have to scale back to basics on some training goals, reassess expectations, or increase rewards where you had tapered off. Encourage even gradual progress; what might look like a small behavior to you is a feat for a puppy that is unable to self-regulate. Be consistent - even when your puppy is not. Ensure your whole family communicates to the dog the same way so that your intentions are clear.

Set your puppy up for success - not failure. This means removing temptations, safety hazards, or freedoms that are not appropriate while your puppy's behaviors are slightly more unpredictable than normal. Maybe you were able to trust him not to eat the remote on the coffee table up until now - but it might be a smart idea to move it out of reach if you see that he is taking his anxiety or energy out on objects that do not belong to him. Help your puppy make the right choices by setting the stage - and reward them when they make the right one.

Keep your puppy's mind engaged. While attention spans may be short - and training may not come as easy - your puppy is still eager to learn and to please. Try teaching him new games - like learning to pick up his toys and put them in his basket - you might even teach the toys by name. Simple things can build a dog's confidence and exercise their minds while learning to communicate with you and earn rewards.

Your puppy is physically awkward and clumsy. Growth spurts in humans are nothing compared to the near tripling of body size for puppies in just a matter of weeks and months. It's a smart idea to regularly engage your puppy in physical activities that help them refine their motor skills and build control over their gangly, growing bodies (which are soon to fill out!). Consider this a confidence building endeavor for your puppy. If your puppy has a lot of energy to burn, agility courses and classes are a great option to help your dog's development and get them tired at the same time. It's also fun!

+ Focus Areas for Training & Socialization

Continue to socialize. Yes, socialization is mentioned in every development stage as a critical exercise - because it is so important! Be aware of the fear imprint component of this stage; and as your puppy becomes more confident and curious - avoid overwhelming or "flooding" them. It is still important to take things slow - and on your puppy's terms! Again, never punish a fearful response. Praise confidence and provide support.

As you move through this phase and into maturity, you might find that your puppy needs less constant correction and more support and space to make their own choices. As mentioned above, set them up for success. Encourage problem solving and engage in confidence building activities for their minds and bodies. Just because some training can be more difficult or take longer to master during this period does not mean your efforts are futile! If your puppy can manage to "proof" cues during this stage, it is very likely to stick "for good".

If you've had your puppy in the home for a while now, they probably have good enough foundation in basic skills to start training on more complex tasks (if desired). However, you must remain vigilant with your puppy's newfound independence, curiosity, confidence, and reliance on instinct. For example, if you are practicing things like long distance recall during this stage - be sure to take extra care in managing the environment in the event your puppy doesn't come back (or runs away) when called.

A note on chewing: keep track of when (and what) puppy chews - and whether it is teething related or destructive chewing caused by boredom or anxiety. Be prepared with lots of good chew toys to redirect undesirable chewing. Always consult with your vet before using any kind of gum paste or gel.

+ Physical & Mental Development Occuring

Teething: Your puppy was born without teeth - and their first set (baby teeth) came in by the time they were about 8-10 weeks old. Around 6 months your puppy will start to lose his baby teeth to make way for his adult set. This second round of teething is more extreme than the first for a few reasons - your puppy has teeth (not just gums) to chew with during the uncomfortable process (RIP favorite shoes) and your puppy's baby teeth did not include molars which are coming in for the first time and tend to be larger and more painful. You might see a little blood in puppy's mouth - and in small amounts this is normal. Your puppy will often swallow or eat his baby teeth - this is also normal and relatively innocuous. By about 7-8 months most puppies are done teething and have a full set of adult teeth (the end is near for those of you reading this at 6 months). As mentioned above, keep track of when puppy chews - and whether it is teething related or destructive chewing caused by boredom or anxiety. Be prepared with lots of good chew toys to redirect undesirable chewing. Always consult with your vet before using any kind of gum paste or gel.

Coat: Your once fluffy puppy is now growing in his adult coat - starting down the spine. You might notice the hair become more coarse or wavy. Shedding (aka "Blowing) of the coat is normal. Enjoy watching your puppy's adult coloration settle.

Brain: Your puppy looks "all growed up" but is still emotionally and developmentally a child. Remind yourself of this as he is leaping over the sofa and spinning like a top in your kitchen.

Neuter/Spay: If you've got a male puppy he is probably starting to lift his leg while eliminating. Your female puppy may start to become more selective about other female dogs she plays with. Perhaps you've even noticed that your puppy really likes to... erhm... take piggyback rides with other dogs. These are all markers of your puppy's sexual maturation.

Depending on the gender of your puppy you will neuter or spay at some point during the adolescent period. While routine with relatively low-risks, this can be a traumatic procedure for your puppy mentally as well as physically. If your puppy is experiencing a particularly aggitated state during a fear period - try to arrange the procedure when he or she is feeling more confident (while not delaying too much) to avoid unneccessary trauma. Spaying or neutering will not change or fix your dog's behavioral problems or challenges - nor does it radically alter their personality.

Body: By the end of this stage your little puppy is not so little anymore. Be sure to follow feeding guidance from your veterinarian as your puppy starts to "fill out" to keep feeding amounts proportionate to his weight. As your puppy ages, you may decide to transition from feeding three times (or more) a day to two times a day. Note that puppy food is very nutritionally dense (and therefore high in caloric value); ask your veterinarian about the best time to transition your puppy to adult food to avoid problems with weight, joints, skin, etc.

+ Behaviors to Expect

You made it! Your puppy is on the tail end of adolescence or has recently emerged from it. Your dog's personality is settling and they are better able to self-regulate or employ self-control. Your dog is now full-size with adult teeth and coat - and you probably have a few grey hairs.

Your Dog:

• May be more turf protective or territorial
• May greet strangers, animals, objects, etc. by barking
• Is thinking freely and independently
• Might be slowing down a bit in terms of energy level
• Is refining canine social skills (e.g. deferring during play, possibly mounting, etc.)
• Reevaluating his place in some groups now that he is bigger, stronger, and more confident

+ How to Manage Behaviors & Support Development

Read your dog carefully. Now that his baseline behaviors have solidified a bit, it will be easier for you to identify when he is stressed, afraid, aggitated, etc. because you know what his "normal" looks like. Note that dogs are animals and some reactions or outbursts cannot be anticipated no matter how good you are at reading a dog's body language or how well you know the dog - prioritize safety first. Continue to monitor dog-dog interactions closely as play fighting may escalate to actual fighting. Watch interactions with children closely and ensure mutual respect. Reinforce how to greet strangers, ignore distractions, etc. Observe your dog closely for behaviors such as resource guarding and over-protectiveness. While not inherently negative, these responses need to be closely managed as to not escalate into aggressive behaviors. Consult your trainer if you start to see signs of being protective to a fault in your dog.

Continue to reward good behaviors and reinforce confidence and problem solving. Understand that just because your dog "knows better" by now doesn't always mean he "knows better". He is still a juvenile, and always an animal. Stay patient, consistent, and vigilant.

Enjoy the trust, bond, and skills you have developed together. This has been hard work for both of you - regardless of how much time you spent in puppyhood together.

+ Focus Areas for Training & Socialization

Continue to socialize your dog to new people, animals, environments, noises, etc. While the "impressionable" stage is largely over - keep in mind that your dog can still develop fears or negative associations at any time. Prepare your dog well in advance for big lifestyle changes (e.g. going back to the office, moving households, welcoming children into your family). He is now used to your routines and his sense of security is embedded in that predictability.

You may wish to enroll your dog in daycare, agility courses, scent work, etc. for enrichment opportunities. Old dogs (and yours is hardly old) CAN learn new tricks. Just because he is not a puppy anymore, doesn't mean he stops learning.

Embrace positive independence and confidence in your dog. He might not cling to you as much as he once did; this is a sign of a job well-done for a puppy parent. You have helped instill these qualities by providing consistency, security, and trust.

+ Physical & Mental Development Occuring

Your puppy is fully grown in terms of height and their growth plates are closing - but puppy may continue to "fill out" a little in terms of muscle tone and girth. Consult your veterinarian to help identify and maintain a healthy target weight from this point forward (especially as your dog's energy level decreases). Your dog's reproductive hormone production has decreased as a result of neuter/spay. Their brain is fully developed and their adult teeth and coat are long established.

+ A Note on Fear Periods

During these stages puppies may gradually become more fearful of situations, objects, and beings they once appeared to be accepting of. You may notice cautious behaviors such as puppy approaching people or objects tentatively, barking, lunging, growling, or even boldness. Fear periods are stages at which the puppy is more susceptible to feeling threatened. During this time, puppies are very sensitive to traumatic experiences and a single “scare” can be enough to affect the dog for its entire life. Puppies are likely to develop avoidance responses if subjected to physical or psychological trauma - especially during fear periods. However, it is important to note that puppies and dogs can become fearful of specific things at any age; fear periods are simply an extra-sensitive time in their development.

Fear periods often coincide with the time puppies are separated from their litter and/or mother and are sent to new homes. They also occur when the puppy is simultaneously learning to be curious and attempting to determine boundaries and standing within their social hierarchy. These are all opportunities to create negative associations that may become generalized - and must be monitored closely to avoid physical or emotional trauma that can be very difficult or even impossible to overcome.

It is important to emphasize low-stress handling in all situations and to not force or pressure your puppy into interactions. Remain calm instead of becoming anxious anticipating your puppy’s reaction to new things as you socialize; they feed off your emotions. Counter-condition by using treats, praise, play, or anything your puppy finds rewarding when you notice apprehension or fear. Don’t overwhelm your puppy as you socialize them to new environments, objects, animals, or people. Never punish a fearful response. Read more from AVSAB about having a positive veterinary visit for your puppy during this sensitive time.

Lastly, socialization is critical to your puppy’s development. Do not avoid socialization throughout fear periods in order to avoid making negative associations or having bad interactions. Instead, carefully manage situations and think through scenarios before introducing your puppy to something or someone new. Socialization is not simply exposure - and when done correctly, it is the best way to teach your puppy not to be fearful. Your puppy is who determines if an interaction was positive - not you, not your trainer, not the other dog, etc. Learn and watch your puppy’s body language closely for signs of stress or fear. Help manage their environment and mitigate threats - it is important that your puppy knows they can trust and rely on you in stressful or novel situations. Remember, your adult dog will largely be a reflection of their experiences in puppyhood and their relationship with you.

Because the first three months are the period when sociability outweighs fear, this is the primary window of opportunity for puppies to adapt to new people, animals, and experiences. Incomplete or improper socialization during this important time can increase the risk of behavioral problems later in life including fear, avoidance, and/or aggression. Behavioral problems are the greatest threat to the owner-dog bond. In fact, behavioral problems are the number one cause of relinquishment to shelters. Behavioral issues, not infectious diseases, are the number one cause of death for dogs under three years of age.

+ Housetraining

The two cardinal rules for house-training success.

1. Prevent Accidents. Supervise your puppy in the house. Use the crate when you’re not sure if your puppy is empty.

2. Reward your puppy for going outside - and use the same spot every time. Praise at the right moment (the second he starts “going") Reward with a treat after he is finished.

+ Mouthing / Puppy Biting

Puppies are little biting machines. They bite things that move, things that don’t move, each other, your hands...anything. Not only is this normal, it is an important part of their development. When puppies play, they learn from their playmates' yelps and body language when a bite is too hard. Overtime a puppy figures out how do use his mouth more gently (to inhibit his bite aka "bite inhibition") to keep play going.

Think about when your puppy is most likely to play bite and be ready to disengage from your puppy when they start mouthing. For example, if you are playing tug and the puppy bites (or bites too hard) stop the play. Your puppy will learn that biting ends play or does not give him the attention he wants.

+ Jumping

Tips for Keeping "Four On The Floor"

1. Teach your puppy what you want them to do first instead of jumping up. Teach your pup an alternative greeting behavior such as sit, lay down, or standing with stillness.

2. Don’t reinforce jumping with attention. Saying no, pushing away and eye contact are all attention to a pup.

3. Prevent jumping by managing your pup’s environment. “Park your pup“ with the leash under your foot so they cannot jump, or have him behind a baby gate when people come over he doesn’t get to practice bad behavior.

+ Leash Pulling

It’s best to walk a pup with a front clip harness.

There are many ways to stop a puppy from pulling. One easy way is to apply the “red light/ green light” method. As soon as your puppy pulls, and the leash goes tight, stop walking. Wait for the leash to loosen (even just a little!) and then walk forward. Be prepared to stop again if your puppy pulls so the leash tightens again. Your puppy needs to learn that a tight leash is a red light that stops the walk. A loose leash is a green light that means more walking.

Try practicing walking after your puppy has had some vigorous exercise.

+ Chewing

Chewing is normal and healthy puppy behavior.

Puppies do chew more, yes. Unlike teething in babies, it won’t peter out and eventually stop - dogs can enjoy chewing for their entire lives - just usually not as incessantly as when they are puppies. It is important to give your puppy plenty of allowed things to chew right away to get him hooked on those instead of your shoes and encourage good chewing behaviors.

Experiment to find out what your puppy prefers. Always have a mixed selection on hand and rotate different type of chewies to keep your puppy interested.

+ What is Positive Reinforcement or Rewards-Based Training?

Dogs repeat behaviors that are rewarding. "Positive" training is simply using rewards to train dogs. In positive training, the goal is to help the dog do the right thing and then reward him for it, rather than punishing him for doing the wrong thing. Rewards are withheld for undesired behavior.

Why does Lu's Labs require positive reinforcement training in their contracts? Simply put - it's best for your dog. Aversives are not more effective and they pose serious risks to your dog's physical, mental, and emotional welfare - in addition to eroding your relationship with your dog.

Positive reinforcement in dog training can go by many names: reward-based training, science-based training, force-free or pain-free training, etc. Regardless of the terminology, the general theory behind this line of thinking remains the same.

Positive-reinforcement teaching techniques use non confrontational methods to work a dog’s brain – rewarding positive behavior, establishing rituals and training actions that are incompatible with negative behavior, and lessening a dog’s anger and frustration – all while enabling the dog to feel good inside. Decision-making is influenced without the use of force, and the dog’s trust in the owner is not violated through threatening treatment.

"Pets trained using aversive methods were 15 times more likely to exhibit symptoms of stress than those trained using "positive" techniques and that training dogs with positive and humane principles was more effective and caused less stress and anxiety than training a dog using aversives such as physical punishment and equipment such as shock, choke or prong collars." The Truth Behind Positive Training

Help your puppy understand what they are doing "right" by using a marker system such as a clicker or your voice. Mark the behavior "yes!" or click and then reward. Precision timing is key! If he makes a mistake, the behavior is ignored, or acknowledged with a non-reward marker to encourage the dog to do something else.

+ Set the conditions: is your puppy ready to learn?

Training should begin in a quiet environment with few distractions. The chosen reward should be highly motivating so that the puppy focuses entirely on the you and the reward. Training just before mealtimes can increase your puppy's motivation.

Your puppy is not receptive to learning when he or she is overexcited, nervous, or overstimulated. Keep in mind your puppy has a short attention span; "formal" training sessions should be limited to no more than 10-15 minutes at a time no more than once or twice per day.

Integrating training into your everyday routines is a natural way for your puppy to learn and reinforce consistency. For example, having your puppy sit before opening the door or placing his bowl on the floor for mealtime - every time.

+ What Every Puppy Should Know

Training your puppy is more than just teaching good house manners for an easier coexistence - it is a safety issue. Training can quite literally save your dog's life or prevent serious injury.

Examples of standard cues that can keep your puppy safe are:

• Wait (e.g. at an open front door, before exiting a vehicle, at bodies of water)
• Stay (e.g. when there is no way to confine your dog and you need him to stay put)
• Recall (e.g. calling your dog to you to get him out of harm's way)
• Leave It (e.g. not swallowing a chicken bone found on the ground)
• Drop It (e.g. releasing a dangerous object from their mouth)

... and many more

AKC's Puppy Training Timeline Goals

AVSAB's Preventative Behavioral Care Guide

+ Training Is For Humans, TOO

So much of your puppy's learning is dependent on your participation and co-learning. The foundation of your puppy's training is your relationship with him or her - your ability to communicate and understand each other. In other words - it's personal. Your puppy is learning your individual body language, movement, routines, and tones along with everything you are "intentionally" teaching; just as you are learning their signs and signals and personality.

This is why it is so important to choose a trainer or facility that emphasizes your direct involvement in your puppy's training. Trainers and facilities that "do the work for you" (e.g. the trainer is doing most of the work with your dog instead of you - or board and train programs) are often not nearly as effective as you and your puppy learning with each other directly. In addition, you are missing out on a critical opportunity to build a relationship with your puppy that last a lifetime. Training is a bonding experience that helps establish trust and confidence between you and your dog - and it is a lifelong engagement. Your puppy will be learning for as long as he lives - and you should want to be a part of it!

Lastly - "Board & Train" facilities or programs should only be used as a last resort (i.e. dog is at risk of euthanasia for a behavioral problem) at the recommendation of a licensed behaviorist. You have no control over what happens at a boarding facility; one bad experience can ruin your puppy’s socialization. Many board and train facilities use force, fear, and pain (in addition to treats) to train dogs. This is very dangerous to a puppy’s emotional well being. Qualified trainers will help you with safe socialization exercises so single event learning can be avoided and the health and safety of the dog is maintained. Humane trainers do not use force, fear, or pain in their training methods.

+ Training Resources to Avoid

There are countless websites, videos, books, and other instructional materials available about training. Unfortunately, the world of dog training is largely unregulated - with no single certifying body providing oversight anyone can call themselves a trainer.

Your Lu's Labs-approved trainer likely has recommendations at the ready for further information - but if you are selecting resources for yourself, here are some things to avoid:

• Materials that promote aversives or aversive methods
• Trainers that advocate for a "balanced" approach instead of a positive-only approach to training
• Resources that are founded on "dominance" or "alpha dog" theory
• Trainers or Facilities that Use Weasel Words to Describe Their Dog Training

Read more from AVSAB on dominance and punishment in behavior modification.

Examples to AVOID

New Skete Monasteries / Monks of New Skete

Larry Krohn

Cesar Milan

Richard A Wolters

Michael Ellis / Leerburg

OffLeashK9

Robin MacFarlane

Ty The Dog Guy

It is important to be vigilant and to apply scrutiny when selecting training advise. With the rise of exclusively positive-reinforcement and rewards-based training, trainers and businesses that utilize aversive training methods have become savvy in disguising harmful techniques and approaches - making them sound less harmful or less invasive than they actually are. Additionally, be sure that claims of positive reinforcement are actually that - just because a trainer or facility does not use prong collars, shock collars, scruff shaking, etc. does not mean that their other methods of correction are purely positive (e.g. social pressure, invasio of space, verbal scolding). A good rule of thumb is anything that causes physical, mental, or emotional discomfort to the dog is aversive - not positive

Reputable Credentialing Organizations

• Karen Pryor Academy certified training partners (KPA-CTP)
• The Academy for Dog Trainers certified trainers (CTC)
• Canine Behavior Certified Consultants—knowledge assessed (CBCC-KA)
• International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (IAABC)
• Certified applied animal behaviorists (CAAB, PhD)
• Board certified veterinary behaviorists (DVM, DACVB)

Important note: No certification guarantees that a trainer or behaviorist uses only force-free, non confrontational methods. If you are unsure, ask what methods the trainer uses, specifically in regard to aversive tools such as shock, prong, or choke collars, intimidation, physical or social pressure.

+ For the Unconvinced

"Show Me The Studies"

"More Studies!"

"But The Professionals Say..."

"But The Experts Say..."

"No, No The Other Experts"

"... The OTHER Experts"

"Does It Really Work?"

"But I Tried It On Myself and It Didn't Hurt"

"Positive Sounds... Too Permissive"

"There Needs to Be Balance"

"He Has To Know Who Is The Alpha"

...Some More Studies

• There is a risk of an aggressive response with the use of confrontational methods (Herron, Shofer & Reisner, 2009). 31% of people who did an alpha roll, 39% who forced the dog to let go of something from their mouth, and 43% of people who hit or kicked the dog reported an aggressive response.

• If people use aversive training techniques, their dogs are 2.9 times more likely to be aggressive to a family member and 2.2 times more likely to be aggressive to a stranger outside the home than if the dog had been trained using reward-based methods (Casey et al 2014).

• Greater frequency of punishment is associated with an increased prevalence of aggression and excitability (Arhant et al 2010)

• Dogs trained to sit and walk on leash using leash jerks or tugs and pushing the dog into a sit position (negative reinforcement) showed more signs of stress (mouth-licking, yawning, and lowered body posture) than those taught with reward-based techniques. They also gazed less at their owner, suggesting the human-canine relationship is not as good (Deldalle and Gaunet, 2014).

+ What Is Not Positive?

"What a good reminder that 'positive reinforcement' is always, by definition, decided by the receiver, not by the ‘giver.’ " - Patricia B. McConnell, PhD, CAAB Emeritus

Rule of Thumb: Anything that causes physical, mental, or emotional discomfort to your dog is aversive and therefore not positive reinforcement.

Some obvious examples might come to mind:

• E-Collar / Shock Collar
• Prong Collar
• Hitting or Beating
• Alpha Rolls
• Scruff Shaking
• Dominance Downs
• Biting the Ears
• Smacking the Nose
• Choking / Restricting Airways

Some other techniques might not appear "so bad" or have "always worked" but can be just as damaging and traumatic to your dog (and your relationship with him)

• Rubbing Nose in Feces
• Physically Forcing a Dog into Position (e.g. Pushing Down on His Rear to Make Him Sit)
• Yelling or Screaming
• Jerking / Pulling on Leash ("Leash Corrections")
• Noise Machines (Barking)
• Citronella Collars (Barking)
• Spray Bottles
• Coin "Shaker" Cans

Here’s the thing: aversives may work, but they aren’t necessary. In many cases, they are simply inhumane. When considering which techniques or tools to use with your own dog, always ask yourself "Is this necessary?" More often than not, there is a better way.

+ Confused by Terms?

Positive reinforcement. Negative punishment. Negative reinforcement. Positive punishment... huh?

If you're doing advanced reading you may come across the following terms which are used to describe the Four Quadrants of Operant Conditioning. These might be confusing when we're talking about positive reinforcement training because the quadrants include terms with the word "positive" that are not actually positive. Positive in this sense just means the addition of something (including punishment), and negative the subtraction of something - not that the method is force-free or humane.

• Positive Reinforcement (+R) is adding a desireable stimulus (e.g. reward - treat, attention, play, etc.) to increase the frequency of behavior. A dog sits and gets a click and a treat. R+ methods are regarded as the most effective form of training because the dog creates a positive emotional response, achieving long-lasting results.

• Negative Reinforcement (-R) is removing an aversive stimulus to increase the frequency of behavior. A dog runs away from the handler and an electric shock is administered until the dog begins to return to the handler (removing the shock to increase the frequency of dog checking in). R- methods can increase anxiety and fear, which can lead to reactivity and aggression, and are therefore not recommended

• Positive Punishment (+P) is adding an aversive stimulus which will reduce the frequency of behavior. Spanking, shouting, or cutting off air supply through a choke chain can be examples of positive punishment. "But it says positive punishment... I'm confused" It's not positive. Using P+ methods relies on causing pain, discomfort, or another unpleasant sensation. This often results in an increase in anxiety, fear, reactivity, and/or aggression. While P+ methods can certainly achieve short term results, it does so by suppressing behavior and can create a negative emotional response. For example, a dog barks at other dogs, and we shock him each time he barks; he is now less likely to bark because it causes him pain, but he now associates the other dog with being shocked. This can increase fear and/or anxiety, leading to increased reactivity or aggression. We've also taught him that he shouldn't communicate his fear by barking; the next time he is afraid, he may jump straight to growling, snapping, or biting instead. In many cases in which a dog 'bites out of nowhere,' it is because he has learned that other warning signals do not produce the desired result - making the scary thing go away.

• Negative Punishment (-P) is removing a desireable stimulus to reduce the frequency of behavior. If a dog jumps on a person to greet them, and the person walks away when the dog jumps, negative punishment has been employed – that person is removing their attention to reduce the frequency of jumping in the future. Another example: We stop playing with a dog when he mouths us. Care should be taken when using P- methods to also redirect the dog to a behavior that we do want to see so that he can then receive positive reinforcement. Without this second step, the dog may become frustrated, experiencing an 'extinction burst' in which the behavior increases or escalates before it goes away.

Source

+ Crate

Choosing the right crate for your puppy is important. The crate is one of your most valuable tools as a puppy parent. When used appropriately it will become your puppy’s preferred location for comfort, security, and solitude. Dogs are den animals, and the crate simulates a den environment while also keeping your dog safe and secure.

A proper crate is integral to housetraining, managing freedoms, and safe transport. Crates come in three primary materials: plastic (aka flight kennels), fabric (aka soft sided kennels), and collapsible metal pens with a base tray. Lu’s Labs recommends metal crates as they are durable (resistant to chewing), easily cleaned, and can be secured. If you are purchasing a used crate, ensure it is thoroughly cleaned and disinfected before allowing your puppy inside.

Choose a crate that will accommodate your puppy when he or she is fully grown. Your dog’s crate should be large enough for them to stand up and comfortably turn around in. While your puppy is small, block off excess crate space using a divider (many metal crates come with these) to prevent puppy from eliminating inside the crate. When the crate is appropriately sized, your puppy is less likely to eliminate inside of it, as dogs do not typically like to soil their dens.

If you have a large or multi-level home, you may consider investing in more than one crate. For example, you may keep one upstairs in your bedroom so the puppy can be near you as it sleeps at night, and you may keep one in your living space so you can monitor puppy in the crate when you are doing house chores, cooking, etc.

Important Reminders:

• Never use the crate as punishment

• Do not leave your puppy in the crate for more than 3-4 hours at a time

• Crate your puppy only until you can trust them in your home. After that, the crate should be a place your puppy chooses to spend time voluntarily

• Do not leave anything in the crate with your puppy unsupervised - including sleeping mats, beds, toys, etc. until you know you can trust your puppy not to destroy or ingest foreign objects

• Each dog in your home should have its own crate (den)

• Do not allow children (or adults) inside the crate with any dog at any time

• Take your puppy’s collar off when inside the crate to prevent choking / strangulation

+ Collar & Lead

Lu’s Labs recommends martingale collars for your puppy. A martingale collar looks similar to a standard nylon collar at first glance, but is actually comprised of two interconnected collars (one around the dog’s neck, and another which is attached to the lead). When your puppy pulls on the lead, the collar loop around the neck tightens. Martingale collars have several benefits:

Puppy cannot slip out of a martingale collar when it is fitted appropriately

Martingale collars prevent neck injury by fitting loosely around your puppy’s neck and tightening only when necessary; distributing pressure evenly to prevent injury to your puppy’s neck / trachea

The gentle tightening mechanism of a martingale collar makes it conducive to training loose lead walking. Your puppy will be safely controlled while being consistently reminded by the tightening action not to pull on the lead.

Leads should be durable, able to support at least three times your puppy's weight, and no more than 6-8 feet in length. You may choose to use a shorter or thinner leash while your puppy is growing to avoid unneccesary weight on puppy's neck. Always keep extra leads on hand, and keep leads out of reach when not in use to avoid chewing.

Use of retractable leads is not allowed. There are many reasons to avoid use of a retractable leash, starting with the fact that on this type of leash, your dog can get far enough away from you to either get into trouble or into harm’s way. Retractable leashes are also responsible for many injuries to both dogs and dog walkers – from superficial burns and cuts to horrific amputations. In most cases, these devices are also wholly counterproductive to training a dog to walk politely on lead. The very nature of retractables trains dogs to pull on the leash to extend the lead. Needless to say, this pulling behavior will be repeated whenever the dog is on a standard leash. Learn more about the dangers of retractable leads

While your Lu’s Labs puppy is microchipped, it is imperative that your puppy wears identification tags at all times for their safety. In many areas, it is the law. Your puppy’s tags should include your puppy’s name, a phone number where you can always be reached and medication requirements if applicable. You may also wish to include your city and state. Additionally, it is a smart idea to indicate on your puppy’s tags that he or she is microchipped - you may even wish to include the chip number itself to expedite the recovery process in the event your puppy is lost.

Important Reminders:

• Check your puppy’s collar at least every week until he or she is fully grown to ensure correct fit. Your puppy is growing; the collar is not!

• You should be able to fit two fingers between the collar and your puppy’s neck, although it should not be loose enough to slip off over the head

• Remove your puppy’s collar when they are in their crate, or when they are at risk of becoming tangled with another dog or object during play

• Prong Collars, Shock Collars, and E-Collars, are PROHIBITED - including their use as a training tool

+ Harness

Harnesses are simply the safest, most secure, and most comfortable way to hook your puppy up to a lead. A good harness will reduce pulling, increase your control over your pup, and decrease stress on their neck and joints. Because it secures closer to the dog’s center of gravity, a harness gets tangled in the leash less and helps prevent jumping.

Harnesses come in many different styles, incuding front clip, back clip, and dual clip. No matter what style you choose for your puppy, be sure to follow fit guidelines to prevent injury or escape. For additional security, you may clip the harness and collar together with a carabiner that is strong and "locks" in place; be sure to attach the carabiner to the leashes to the harness and collar, not the carabiner.

+ Water & Food Dishes

Food and water bowls for your puppy may seem like a simple thing, but materials matter! The easiest type of bowl to keep clean – and, not incidently, also the safest bowl for your dog to eat and drink from – is stainless steel. This material will not leach potentially dangerous chemicals into your dog’s food and water, like some plastics, aluminum, poorly glazed pottery, or old ceramic dishes.

Elevated food bowls are not necessary for your puppy and can be an obstacle to feeding. Unless your veterinarian specifically recommends it, your puppy will be just fine with bowls that rest on the floor. If you have a fast eater, consider a slow feeder bowl.

Ensure your puppy has a dedicated eating space that is easily accessible and clean. Your feeding routine, including your bowls, are some of your biggest training tools.

+ Age Appropriate Toys

Age appropriate toys are some of your best assets when raising a puppy - in terms of training, entertainment, and development! Choose toys that exercise your puppy's mind, help them develop control over their growing body, and occupy those teeth! Video: Types of Toys & How to Use Them

Brain Games

> Food Dispensing Toys

> Snuffle Mats

> Puzzles

Chewing

> Bully sticks> (they also go by other brand names) - these are dried bull pizzles. There is no choking hazard, they are digestible, and they come in all the same sizes and shapes you might expect from a rawhide. Although we use these, there are some downsides: they have the same bacteria issues as rawhide, they are very high in calories, and they are messy and stink to high heaven! Antlers - These are from elk or deer. They won’t splinter or create much odor, and they have nooks and crannies that really help get your dog’s teeth clean. Be sure to get the naturally-shed ones for extra kindness!

> Kongs> - These are the ubiquitousrubber oblong toys that you can stuff with treats and various spreads to keep your dog occupied and chewing for hours! They are billed as being indestructible, so there are no concerns about choking or digestion (except for whatever you put in it). There are plenty of other rubbery type of chewies on the market as well. Check out Dogzilla and Zanies as well.

> Yak/Himalayan chews> - Made from yak’s milk using a Nepali method. They are hard and thick, but yielding. They are all-natural, so there is no concern with bacteria, choking, digestion, or smell. These are one of the best chewing options available on the market today.

> Frozen peanut butter, broth cubes-> You can always go DIY and make your own frozen concoctions that your dog can work on for hours. These are especially great during the summer months!

> Dental chews and treats> - there are a plethora of brands on the market, and there are mixed reviews of different ones, depending on who you talk to. One that seems to be safest is Halo brand chews (they come in different flavors), but you should definitely ask your vet and local, independent pet food store for their feedback.

Toys to Avoid and/or Supervise Closely

> Vinyl> - > Dangers of Vinyl Toys

> Sticks> - > Common Injuries and Pitfalls

> Rope Toys> - Strands of rope can be very dangerous when swallowed. Vets categorize this as a “linear foreign body.” The danger occurs when one part of the rope is stuck in the stomach and the other part of the rope makes it into the intestines. The digestive system attempts to pass this through its system, and it begins to cinch on itself like the drawstring in a pair of sweatpants. This slowly tightens the digestive track and can become life threatening and painful. Even small pieces of rope overtime can accumulate like hairs in a shower drain causing a blockage.

> Nylabones> - When unsupervised some dogs can chew these into small pieces that are not digestible. They can cause intestinal blockage, and when chewed into sharp shards can also pose a threat by puncturing the intestines.

> Rawhides> - Some rawhide bones have been found to have trace contaminants and toxic chemicals not good for your dog’s consumption. Choking and blockages can occur when your chewer ingests pieces of the rawhide bones. Your dog may be sensitive to rawhide and it can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and other signs of poor health.

> Balls and Tennis Balls> - Balls are a major choking hazard for dogs. Especially if the ball is wrong sized. Typical tennis balls can be too small for larger breeds like golden retrievers and, you guessed it, Labs. The ball can get stuck in your dog’s throat when he or she catches it and cause a blockage. When this type of accident happens, you will not have time to get the dog to the vet before he could choke. It’s important to get to your dog immediately, straddle the dog, open the mouth and grab it out of the throat, it may mean sliding 2 fingers down to try to get it un-wedged. If it’s lodged too deeply you may need to work on the outside of the dog’s throat first and try to roll the ball up. The faster you can get the ball out the better your dog’s chances of survival. At the end of the day it’s important to consider oversized balls that won’t go down their throats when engaging in play.

The bottom line is, that when our dogs are left to their own devices it’s important we don’t leave them with toys that can be harmful. It’s also important to supervise their play and know the right toys for the right sized dogs.

+ Grooming Supplies

Nail Clippers

Nail clipping is not for the faint of heart. If you are uncomfortable or inexperienced with cutting a puppy's nails, always consult your veterinarian. In fact, many dog owners leave this task to the professionals.

However, if you choose to clip nails at home, three primary options are available. Ensure that no matter which kind of clipper you choose, you understand how to use the tool safely and effectively - and have a plan in place in the case of an emergency. Nail clipping can be traumatic and injurious if done incorrectly - especially to puppies that are in critical stages of development.

Brushes

Brushing is an important part of maintaining a healthy coat, and is also an opportunity for you to regularly evaluate the health of your puppy's skin. Brushes come in many varieties for different uses. Ensure that your selection is appropriate for your puppy's length and density of hair - and does not cause any painful pulling or raking on the skin. While shedding may be driving you crazy as your puppy phases in their adult coat, it is important to be gentle and allow undercoats to cycle naturally.

Shampoos

A safe and effective "regular use" shampoo is an essential staple for your puppy - who will no doubt be exploring, rolling, and playing outside. Just like human shampoos, puppy shampoos can be formulated for general cleaning as well as specific purposes like killing fleas or soothing irritated skin.

Unfortunately the wide variety of products available can include harmful ingredients that you should avoid. Pet shampoos are not regulated - meaning manufacturers are not required to list their ingredients on the bottle. Select a shampoo that clearly lists all ingredients and make sure you understand what they are used for. Artificial colors and fragrances may make the bathing experience more pleasurable for you - the human - but offer no benefit to your puppy. In fact, many pthalates and synthetics have properties that can be toxic to your puppy. Never use human shampoo on your dog.

Avoid bathing your puppy too often. A good rule of thumb is about once a month (and of course - not while recovering from spay/neuter). Your puppy's skin is sensitive and is home to an entire microworld of friendly bacteria. Washing too often may reduce your puppy's ability to fight off skin infections or cause irritation. In between baths, consider using a dry shampoo for odor - or baby wipes / wet washcloth for "spot" cleaning.

Toothpaste & Brushes

Yes, your puppy needs to brush! A puppy that grows up with brushing as part of their routine will be less resistant to it as an adult - and with toothpaste flavored like chicken or beef, many even enjoy it! Over two thirds of dogs over the age of three have periodontal disease (inflammation or infection of tissue surrounding the teeth) which starts as gingivitis caused by plaque. You can help your puppy have better dental health for their lifetime (and better breath) by brushing regularly.

Commercial toothbrushes are available specifically designed for use in dogs. Pet toothpase is available in a variety of flavors. Never use baking soda or human toothpaste.

+ Transport

Your puppy is always safest when riding in a crate. There are some models specifically designed for use in the car. However, crate travel is not always feasible or practical for regular trips.

Just like humans, puppies should always be buckled up on the road. Using a crash test certified seatbelt or harness mechanism for your puppy helps prevent driver distractions, attempts to escape, barking and lunging, restlessness, etc. as well as serious injury. Just like a child, the safest place for your puppy to ride is in the back seat.

Learn more about the Center for Pet Safety's CPS Certification Program for harnesses, crates, and carriers.

Always tether your puppy when riding in the car to prevent escape.

+ Pesticides & Plants

Certain items that are used on the lawn, flowers, and plants, such as fertilizers, pesticides, mulch, and compost, may contain chemicals or elements that a pet should not eat, drink, or lick. Cocoa mulch, for example, is toxic, yet the smell is tempting to animals, and compost may contain food items that pets can choke on or that is toxic to them. Care must be taken to also protect puppies in yards with fire pits or outdoor fireplaces, pools, and ponds.

Toxic and Non-Toxic Plants List

+ Fence Integrity

Fences keep your puppy inside, others outside, and provide privacy... but only if your fence is intact and maintained properly! Ensure your fence is sturdy - and if it is wooden - free of holes, gaps, and rot.

If you are struggling with jumping, digging, tunneling, etc. consider some of the solutions offered on Peace in the Yard to improve your fencing.

+ Securing Doors

Puppies are curious and sometimes flighty. Once your pup has dashed through an open door, the possibility of injury increases dramatically - running into traffic, getting lost, encountering wildlife, etc.

Ensure that all doors to the exterior of your home (or areas that are hazardous to puppy such as the garage) close fully and securely. If you have children in your home, be sure to emphasize the importance of closing doors when coming in and out... every time!

It is not uncommon for dogs to "learn" how to open doors - especially those with simple latches or flat handle doorknobs. If needed, change the handles, add top locks, or install commercial door closers that ensure a sealed shut every time.

Never install a dog door.

+ Interspecies Households

As you go forward with a plan to integrate your household with a variety of animal species, keep in mind that dogs are still predators. If given the opportunity to learn that killing bunnies or cats is fun, many of them will enjoy doing it, even if they don’t have a strong genetic propensity to find the behavior reinforcing.

In addition to safety - for the happiness and emotional wellbeing of your cats, birds, gerbils, etc. it is important for them to have a dedicated space of their own to retreat to and feel safe - no matter how long puppy has lived with you. Easy ways to segregate your house include baby gates (some even have cat doors) and door buddy systems. This is also an excellent way to keep puppy from "digging for treasure" in the cat litter box or scarfing down some extra meals from the cat bowls.

+ Protecting Your Furniture

We've all seen the horror stories... the Italian leather sofa sitting cubside just days or weeks after bringing puppy home...the favorite throw pillows suddenly disemboweled..the coffee table legs crippled... the rug that looks like swiss cheese.

Supervision is your first line of defense in protecting your furnishings as you gradually increase freedoms for your young (and likely teething) pup. However, there are some things that can help:

• Anti-Chew Cord Protectors
• Sofa Covers
• Corner Covers/Protectors
• Wall Corner Shields
• Cabinet Locks
• Rug Guards
• Furniture Anchors

Of course, monitoring puppy closely and removing temptation is the best course of action. But you're not going to put your sofa on the roof - so simple things like keeping your puppy's coat groomed, nails trimmed, and teeth otherwise occupied are all good practices for the longevity of your furniture.

If you choose not to allow your puppy on your furniture or bed, start enforcing those rules early and consistently.

+ Baby Gates & Barriers

Household freedoms must be closely managed until you can learn to trust your puppy not to eliminate, chew, etc. where they are not supposed to. Keep in mind that just because they've "got it" one day does not mean you won't experience regression and boundary testing - especially in adolescence.

Baby Gates, Door Stops, Play Pens, etc. are all means of confining your puppy to certain areas of the home and are a great way to manage your puppy's privileges while keeping them safe. Baby Gates are particularly versitile as they can be moved throughout the house (e.g. blocking off a staircase and therefore an entire level of the home - or just one room). Additionally, they come in many varieties - tall, short, swing door, step-over, with cat doors, etc. and are often adjustable to most doorways. An additional benefit is that your puppy can see you through the gate while remaining confined to a particular space. This is especially helpful when teaching your puppy to not charge out of an open door or to remain calm and away from guests as they enter your home.