+ Crate

Choosing the right crate for your puppy is important. The crate is one of your most valuable tools as a puppy parent. When used appropriately it will become your puppy’s preferred location for comfort, security, and solitude. Dogs are den animals, and the crate simulates a den environment while also keeping your dog safe and secure.

A proper crate is integral to housetraining, managing freedoms, and safe transport. Crates come in three primary materials: plastic (aka flight kennels), fabric (aka soft sided kennels), and collapsible metal pens with a base tray. Lu’s Labs recommends metal crates as they are durable (resistant to chewing), easily cleaned, and can be secured. If you are purchasing a used crate, ensure it is thoroughly cleaned and disinfected before allowing your puppy inside.

Choose a crate that will accommodate your puppy when he or she is fully grown. Your dog’s crate should be large enough for them to stand up and comfortably turn around in. While your puppy is small, block off excess crate space using a divider (many metal crates come with these) to prevent puppy from eliminating inside the crate. When the crate is appropriately sized, your puppy is less likely to eliminate inside of it, as dogs do not typically like to soil their dens.

If you have a large or multi-level home, you may consider investing in more than one crate. For example, you may keep one upstairs in your bedroom so the puppy can be near you as it sleeps at night, and you may keep one in your living space so you can monitor puppy in the crate when you are doing house chores, cooking, etc.

Important Reminders:

• Never use the crate as punishment

• Do not leave your puppy in the crate for more than 3-4 hours at a time

• Crate your puppy only until you can trust them in your home. After that, the crate should be a place your puppy chooses to spend time voluntarily

• Do not leave anything in the crate with your puppy unsupervised - including sleeping mats, beds, toys, etc. until you know you can trust your puppy not to destroy or ingest foreign objects

• Each dog in your home should have its own crate (den)

• Do not allow children (or adults) inside the crate with any dog at any time

• Take your puppy’s collar off when inside the crate to prevent choking / strangulation

+ Collar & Lead

Lu’s Labs recommends martingale collars for your puppy. A martingale collar looks similar to a standard nylon collar at first glance, but is actually comprised of two interconnected collars (one around the dog’s neck, and another which is attached to the lead). When your puppy pulls on the lead, the collar loop around the neck tightens. Martingale collars have several benefits:

Puppy cannot slip out of a martingale collar when it is fitted appropriately

Martingale collars prevent neck injury by fitting loosely around your puppy’s neck and tightening only when necessary; distributing pressure evenly to prevent injury to your puppy’s neck / trachea

The gentle tightening mechanism of a martingale collar makes it conducive to training loose lead walking. Your puppy will be safely controlled while being consistently reminded by the tightening action not to pull on the lead.

Leads should be durable, able to support at least three times your puppy's weight, and no more than 6-8 feet in length. You may choose to use a shorter or thinner leash while your puppy is growing to avoid unneccesary weight on puppy's neck. Always keep extra leads on hand, and keep leads out of reach when not in use to avoid chewing.

Use of retractable leads is not allowed. There are many reasons to avoid use of a retractable leash, starting with the fact that on this type of leash, your dog can get far enough away from you to either get into trouble or into harm’s way. Retractable leashes are also responsible for many injuries to both dogs and dog walkers – from superficial burns and cuts to horrific amputations. In most cases, these devices are also wholly counterproductive to training a dog to walk politely on lead. The very nature of retractables trains dogs to pull on the leash to extend the lead. Needless to say, this pulling behavior will be repeated whenever the dog is on a standard leash. Learn more about the dangers of retractable leads

While your Lu’s Labs puppy is microchipped, it is imperative that your puppy wears identification tags at all times for their safety. In many areas, it is the law. Your puppy’s tags should include your puppy’s name, a phone number where you can always be reached and medication requirements if applicable. You may also wish to include your city and state. Additionally, it is a smart idea to indicate on your puppy’s tags that he or she is microchipped - you may even wish to include the chip number itself to expedite the recovery process in the event your puppy is lost.

Important Reminders:

• Check your puppy’s collar at least every week until he or she is fully grown to ensure correct fit. Your puppy is growing; the collar is not!

• You should be able to fit two fingers between the collar and your puppy’s neck, although it should not be loose enough to slip off over the head

• Remove your puppy’s collar when they are in their crate, or when they are at risk of becoming tangled with another dog or object during play

• Prong Collars, Shock Collars, and E-Collars, are PROHIBITED - including their use as a training tool

+ Harness

Harnesses are simply the safest, most secure, and most comfortable way to hook your puppy up to a lead. A good harness will reduce pulling, increase your control over your pup, and decrease stress on their neck and joints. Because it secures closer to the dog’s center of gravity, a harness gets tangled in the leash less and helps prevent jumping.

Harnesses come in many different styles, incuding front clip, back clip, and dual clip. No matter what style you choose for your puppy, be sure to follow fit guidelines to prevent injury or escape. For additional security, you may clip the harness and collar together with a carabiner that is strong and "locks" in place; be sure to attach the carabiner to the leashes to the harness and collar, not the carabiner.

+ Water & Food Dishes

Food and water bowls for your puppy may seem like a simple thing, but materials matter! The easiest type of bowl to keep clean – and, not incidently, also the safest bowl for your dog to eat and drink from – is stainless steel. This material will not leach potentially dangerous chemicals into your dog’s food and water, like some plastics, aluminum, poorly glazed pottery, or old ceramic dishes.

Elevated food bowls are not necessary for your puppy and can be an obstacle to feeding. Unless your veterinarian specifically recommends it, your puppy will be just fine with bowls that rest on the floor. If you have a fast eater, consider a slow feeder bowl.

Ensure your puppy has a dedicated eating space that is easily accessible and clean. Your feeding routine, including your bowls, are some of your biggest training tools.

+ Age Appropriate Toys

Age appropriate toys are some of your best assets when raising a puppy - in terms of training, entertainment, and development! Choose toys that exercise your puppy's mind, help them develop control over their growing body, and occupy those teeth! Video: Types of Toys & How to Use Them

Brain Games

> Food Dispensing Toys

> Snuffle Mats

> Puzzles

Chewing

> Bully sticks> (they also go by other brand names) - these are dried bull pizzles. There is no choking hazard, they are digestible, and they come in all the same sizes and shapes you might expect from a rawhide. Although we use these, there are some downsides: they have the same bacteria issues as rawhide, they are very high in calories, and they are messy and stink to high heaven! Antlers - These are from elk or deer. They won’t splinter or create much odor, and they have nooks and crannies that really help get your dog’s teeth clean. Be sure to get the naturally-shed ones for extra kindness!

> Kongs> - These are the ubiquitousrubber oblong toys that you can stuff with treats and various spreads to keep your dog occupied and chewing for hours! They are billed as being indestructible, so there are no concerns about choking or digestion (except for whatever you put in it). There are plenty of other rubbery type of chewies on the market as well. Check out Dogzilla and Zanies as well.

> Yak/Himalayan chews> - Made from yak’s milk using a Nepali method. They are hard and thick, but yielding. They are all-natural, so there is no concern with bacteria, choking, digestion, or smell. These are one of the best chewing options available on the market today.

> Frozen peanut butter, broth cubes-> You can always go DIY and make your own frozen concoctions that your dog can work on for hours. These are especially great during the summer months!

> Dental chews and treats> - there are a plethora of brands on the market, and there are mixed reviews of different ones, depending on who you talk to. One that seems to be safest is Halo brand chews (they come in different flavors), but you should definitely ask your vet and local, independent pet food store for their feedback.

Toys to Avoid and/or Supervise Closely

> Vinyl> - > Dangers of Vinyl Toys

> Sticks> - > Common Injuries and Pitfalls

> Rope Toys> - Strands of rope can be very dangerous when swallowed. Vets categorize this as a “linear foreign body.” The danger occurs when one part of the rope is stuck in the stomach and the other part of the rope makes it into the intestines. The digestive system attempts to pass this through its system, and it begins to cinch on itself like the drawstring in a pair of sweatpants. This slowly tightens the digestive track and can become life threatening and painful. Even small pieces of rope overtime can accumulate like hairs in a shower drain causing a blockage.

> Nylabones> - When unsupervised some dogs can chew these into small pieces that are not digestible. They can cause intestinal blockage, and when chewed into sharp shards can also pose a threat by puncturing the intestines.

> Rawhides> - Some rawhide bones have been found to have trace contaminants and toxic chemicals not good for your dog’s consumption. Choking and blockages can occur when your chewer ingests pieces of the rawhide bones. Your dog may be sensitive to rawhide and it can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and other signs of poor health.

> Balls and Tennis Balls> - Balls are a major choking hazard for dogs. Especially if the ball is wrong sized. Typical tennis balls can be too small for larger breeds like golden retrievers and, you guessed it, Labs. The ball can get stuck in your dog’s throat when he or she catches it and cause a blockage. When this type of accident happens, you will not have time to get the dog to the vet before he could choke. It’s important to get to your dog immediately, straddle the dog, open the mouth and grab it out of the throat, it may mean sliding 2 fingers down to try to get it un-wedged. If it’s lodged too deeply you may need to work on the outside of the dog’s throat first and try to roll the ball up. The faster you can get the ball out the better your dog’s chances of survival. At the end of the day it’s important to consider oversized balls that won’t go down their throats when engaging in play.

The bottom line is, that when our dogs are left to their own devices it’s important we don’t leave them with toys that can be harmful. It’s also important to supervise their play and know the right toys for the right sized dogs.

+ Grooming Supplies

Nail Clippers

Nail clipping is not for the faint of heart. If you are uncomfortable or inexperienced with cutting a puppy's nails, always consult your veterinarian. In fact, many dog owners leave this task to the professionals.

However, if you choose to clip nails at home, three primary options are available. Ensure that no matter which kind of clipper you choose, you understand how to use the tool safely and effectively - and have a plan in place in the case of an emergency. Nail clipping can be traumatic and injurious if done incorrectly - especially to puppies that are in critical stages of development.

Brushes

Brushing is an important part of maintaining a healthy coat, and is also an opportunity for you to regularly evaluate the health of your puppy's skin. Brushes come in many varieties for different uses. Ensure that your selection is appropriate for your puppy's length and density of hair - and does not cause any painful pulling or raking on the skin. While shedding may be driving you crazy as your puppy phases in their adult coat, it is important to be gentle and allow undercoats to cycle naturally.

Shampoos

A safe and effective "regular use" shampoo is an essential staple for your puppy - who will no doubt be exploring, rolling, and playing outside. Just like human shampoos, puppy shampoos can be formulated for general cleaning as well as specific purposes like killing fleas or soothing irritated skin.

Unfortunately the wide variety of products available can include harmful ingredients that you should avoid. Pet shampoos are not regulated - meaning manufacturers are not required to list their ingredients on the bottle. Select a shampoo that clearly lists all ingredients and make sure you understand what they are used for. Artificial colors and fragrances may make the bathing experience more pleasurable for you - the human - but offer no benefit to your puppy. In fact, many pthalates and synthetics have properties that can be toxic to your puppy. Never use human shampoo on your dog.

Avoid bathing your puppy too often. A good rule of thumb is about once a month (and of course - not while recovering from spay/neuter). Your puppy's skin is sensitive and is home to an entire microworld of friendly bacteria. Washing too often may reduce your puppy's ability to fight off skin infections or cause irritation. In between baths, consider using a dry shampoo for odor - or baby wipes / wet washcloth for "spot" cleaning.

Toothpaste & Brushes

Yes, your puppy needs to brush! A puppy that grows up with brushing as part of their routine will be less resistant to it as an adult - and with toothpaste flavored like chicken or beef, many even enjoy it! Over two thirds of dogs over the age of three have periodontal disease (inflammation or infection of tissue surrounding the teeth) which starts as gingivitis caused by plaque. You can help your puppy have better dental health for their lifetime (and better breath) by brushing regularly.

Commercial toothbrushes are available specifically designed for use in dogs. Pet toothpase is available in a variety of flavors. Never use baking soda or human toothpaste.

+ Transport

Your puppy is always safest when riding in a crate. There are some models specifically designed for use in the car. However, crate travel is not always feasible or practical for regular trips.

Just like humans, puppies should always be buckled up on the road. Using a crash test certified seatbelt or harness mechanism for your puppy helps prevent driver distractions, attempts to escape, barking and lunging, restlessness, etc. as well as serious injury. Just like a child, the safest place for your puppy to ride is in the back seat.

Learn more about the Center for Pet Safety's CPS Certification Program for harnesses, crates, and carriers.

Always tether your puppy when riding in the car to prevent escape.

+ Pesticides & Plants

Certain items that are used on the lawn, flowers, and plants, such as fertilizers, pesticides, mulch, and compost, may contain chemicals or elements that a pet should not eat, drink, or lick. Cocoa mulch, for example, is toxic, yet the smell is tempting to animals, and compost may contain food items that pets can choke on or that is toxic to them. Care must be taken to also protect puppies in yards with fire pits or outdoor fireplaces, pools, and ponds.

Toxic and Non-Toxic Plants List

+ Fence Integrity

Fences keep your puppy inside, others outside, and provide privacy... but only if your fence is intact and maintained properly! Ensure your fence is sturdy - and if it is wooden - free of holes, gaps, and rot.

If you are struggling with jumping, digging, tunneling, etc. consider some of the solutions offered on Peace in the Yard to improve your fencing.

+ Securing Doors

Puppies are curious and sometimes flighty. Once your pup has dashed through an open door, the possibility of injury increases dramatically - running into traffic, getting lost, encountering wildlife, etc.

Ensure that all doors to the exterior of your home (or areas that are hazardous to puppy such as the garage) close fully and securely. If you have children in your home, be sure to emphasize the importance of closing doors when coming in and out... every time!

It is not uncommon for dogs to "learn" how to open doors - especially those with simple latches or flat handle doorknobs. If needed, change the handles, add top locks, or install commercial door closers that ensure a sealed shut every time.

Never install a dog door.

+ Interspecies Households

As you go forward with a plan to integrate your household with a variety of animal species, keep in mind that dogs are still predators. If given the opportunity to learn that killing bunnies or cats is fun, many of them will enjoy doing it, even if they don’t have a strong genetic propensity to find the behavior reinforcing.

In addition to safety - for the happiness and emotional wellbeing of your cats, birds, gerbils, etc. it is important for them to have a dedicated space of their own to retreat to and feel safe - no matter how long puppy has lived with you. Easy ways to segregate your house include baby gates (some even have cat doors) and door buddy systems. This is also an excellent way to keep puppy from "digging for treasure" in the cat litter box or scarfing down some extra meals from the cat bowls.

+ Protecting Your Furniture

We've all seen the horror stories... the Italian leather sofa sitting cubside just days or weeks after bringing puppy home...the favorite throw pillows suddenly disemboweled..the coffee table legs crippled... the rug that looks like swiss cheese.

Supervision is your first line of defense in protecting your furnishings as you gradually increase freedoms for your young (and likely teething) pup. However, there are some things that can help:

• Anti-Chew Cord Protectors
• Sofa Covers
• Corner Covers/Protectors
• Wall Corner Shields
• Cabinet Locks
• Rug Guards
• Furniture Anchors

Of course, monitoring puppy closely and removing temptation is the best course of action. But you're not going to put your sofa on the roof - so simple things like keeping your puppy's coat groomed, nails trimmed, and teeth otherwise occupied are all good practices for the longevity of your furniture.

If you choose not to allow your puppy on your furniture or bed, start enforcing those rules early and consistently.

+ Baby Gates & Barriers

Household freedoms must be closely managed until you can learn to trust your puppy not to eliminate, chew, etc. where they are not supposed to. Keep in mind that just because they've "got it" one day does not mean you won't experience regression and boundary testing - especially in adolescence.

Baby Gates, Door Stops, Play Pens, etc. are all means of confining your puppy to certain areas of the home and are a great way to manage your puppy's privileges while keeping them safe. Baby Gates are particularly versitile as they can be moved throughout the house (e.g. blocking off a staircase and therefore an entire level of the home - or just one room). Additionally, they come in many varieties - tall, short, swing door, step-over, with cat doors, etc. and are often adjustable to most doorways. An additional benefit is that your puppy can see you through the gate while remaining confined to a particular space. This is especially helpful when teaching your puppy to not charge out of an open door or to remain calm and away from guests as they enter your home.