+ Behaviors to Expect

Your puppy may begin to react negatively to new things. Their newfound curiousity is matched with an increase in apprehension toward strange items, animals, people, and environments. You may see your puppy become more cautious or tentative in their approach to things. Fear can also manifest as barking, lunging, growling, and boldness.

Your Puppy...

• Has a short attention span
• Will tire quickly and sleep a lot
• Is eager to learn and to play
• Is beginning to show personality and temperment
• Is incredibly impressionable and is beginning to form lifelong behaviors and associations
• Is acclimating to a human environment after separting from his canine family

+ How to Manage Behaviors & Support Development

Basic manners training should continue (or begin, if not started) through this stage. Housetraining can be successful at this stage. Be sure to encourage healthy chewing behaviors and teach bite inhibition as your puppy is teething. Puppies are generally very playful during this stage; harness playtime as a learning and bonding opportunity. Follow a structured routine and reward calm behaviors. Every event in your routine (feeding, opening the door, etc.) is a training opportunity. Integrating training in this way is more effective for some puppies than formal / structured training time as their attention spans are short.

+ Focus Areas for Training & Socialization

During this time puppies should be exposed to as many new people, animals, stimuli and environments as can be achieved safely and without causing overstimulation manifested as excessive fear, withdrawal or avoidance behavior. Introduce your puppy to new things - people, noises, cars, appliances, textures, animals, environments, smells, etc. Your puppy needs positive experiences to lay the groundwork for being a well-adjusted adult.

This is also a good time to enroll in puppy group classes. Waiting to enroll until 12 weeks does not allow the puppy to learn during this critical period and can result in lifelong behavioral problems. For this reason, the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior believes that it should be the standard of care for puppies to receive such socialization before they are fully vaccinated. In general, puppies can start puppy socialization classes as early as 8 weeks of age. Puppies should receive a minimum of one set of vaccines at least 7 days prior to the first class and a first deworming. They should be kept up-to-date on vaccines throughout the class.

+ Physical & Mental Development Occuring

Your puppy's body is growing rapidly; he or she is physically vulnerable and a bit clumsy! Avoid over-exercise which can damage your puppy's growth plates and joint development. Expect your puppy to need a lot of sleep at this stage and to tire easilly. Their brain is developing quickly and this is an ideal time for training and learning. Nutrition needs are vital at this stage. Additionally, your puppy may be teething (or on the tail end of bringing in their baby teeth). Be patient with housetraining; puppies are just beginning to control their bladders and will need to eliminiate every few hours and after playing, eating/drinking, sleeping, or spending time in their crate. Your pup is physically prone to have accidents and is unlikely to be able to make it through the night without urinating.

+ Behaviors to Expect

Your puppy is observing humans and animals in the home... and trying to clarify and resolve where he fits in the group. Your puppy may try to determine what activities are done when or begin to question authority.

Your Puppy...

• Is showing less caution and more curiosity
• Is energetic (beware overexertion as this can lead to behavioral problems)
• Still needs lots of sleep
• May be easily overexcited / hit threshold quickly
• Needs routine and structure
• Is experiencing teething that may cause discomfort, aggitation, and innate desire to chew

+ How to Manage Behaviors & Support Development

Structure and consistency is key at this stage. Your puppy has either learned your routine or is just walking into it (depending on when they came into your home) and it is important to stick to it through this period.

Continue to socialize your puppy. You are nearing the end of the critical socialization window which cannot be truly compensated for if missed.

+ Focus Areas for Training & Socialization

Be especially aware of what your body language and tone communicates to your puppy; ensure your whole family is consistent. Continue to teach bite inhibition and supervise closely around children. Monitor your puppy closely to learn what causes them to become overexcited or to hit threshold. Ensure your puppy is getting mental stimulation as well as physical stimulation.

Your puppy is learning to get things from you (attention, play, food). Be sure that you offer these things only when you want to or within your established routine - not every time your puppy asks. The only thing you should be responsive to every time they ask is taking them outside to eliminate. This helps your puppy understand where they fall in your household hierarchy.

+ Physical & Mental Development Occuring

Your puppy is likely tall and lanky. He has better control over his bladder and may be able to start making it through the night without needing to eliminate. Your puppy's adult teeth are starting to come in. You may notice excessive mouthing, incessant chewing, bruised or red gums, and missing teeth. You should be completing puppy vaccination cycles toward the end of this phase. Your puppy is likely putting on weight at a quick pace; be sure to keep up with feeding and nutrition guidelines and increase portions as recommended by your veterinarian.

+ Behaviors to Expect

This stage can last from a few days to several weeks and can occur anytime between 4 and 8 months of age. You may experience flight instinct concurrently with other stages.

Your puppy is "testing his wings". You may notice an abrupt change in behavior... the puppy that has been following you around and observing you closely for weeks or months is now beginning to stray.

Your Puppy...

• May ignore cues to stay close or come when called
• May not respond to his name
• Might loose interest in activities he once enjoyed (e.g. fetch)
• Is becoming more independent
• May try to "take off" through doors, over fences, off leash, or out of cars, etc.

+ How to Manage Behaviors & Support Development

Leash your puppy even if he has been trustworthy in the past. Recall is never guaranteed - but especially during this phase. Reinforce coming when called with high value rewards and lots of praise; never ask your puppy to come and then scold him or make him leave the fun activity he was just doing (you want him to know coming to you means good things - every time). Be especially cautious around doors, gates, fences, etc. to prevent a creative escape.

Reinforce independent behaviors that you like. For example, if your puppy takes a toy and quietly chews it on his mat in another room when he usually sits beneath your feet.

+ Focus Areas for Training & Socialization

You may experience sudden disobedience or challenging of authority that you have not seen before (or that is more acute than before). This is the time when obedience schools get most of their calls. Puppies that have not been socialized and trained will take a different path than those that have. It is because of this stage that preventative socialization is so important - because it can be so hard to correct at this stage through all of the physiological changes your puppy is experiencing.

+ Physical & Mental Development Occuring

On top of everything else your puppy is going through at this stage, they are still aggressively teething, growing physically, and developing mentally.

+ Behaviors to Expect

If you skipped straight to this section because you heard the horror stories about the notorious teenage phase - you're not alone. This is one of the most difficult stages of growth and development for puppy parents... and when some start to question their decision about adopting a puppy.

While challenging, this stage can also be fun, entertaining, and rewarding. Keep in mind that you will get out of this phase (and every phase of your puppy's development) what you put into it. Adolescence can last longer in larger breeds, but if you are patient in reinforcing good behaviors and habits - as well as diligent in responsible socialization - you will have a well adjusted adult dog for a decade or more ahead. It does not last forever and it is important to remember that most of the behaviors your puppy ehxibits during this phase are managable and will not last forever (when addressed appropriately).

Your puppy may look more like an adult now, but is stil very much a child in an adult/teen body. This is also a fear period in which your puppy is impressionable and sensitive to trauma and overwhelming situations.

Your Puppy...

• May become more reactive
• May become protective or territorial
• Might exhibit "teenage flakiness"
• Show signs of apprehension or timidity
• Is thinking freely and acting independently
• Is still energetic and does not tire as easily
• Excitable and eager to explore/learn
• Is continually reassessing his place in the group
• Is more likely to rely on his instinctual urges

+ How to Manage Behaviors & Support Development

For Your Sanity: Be realistic about your expectations during this phase - and try to appreciate the hilarity of the teenage puppy antics you are likely to experience. Understand that you may observe some lapses in the training you have been working on - and even some apprehension or cautious behaviors in your pup despite good socialization work up to this point. This does not mean your puppy "forgot" everything you taught them - but adolescents do appear to "brain dump" or have "selective hearing" at this stage. Do not be complacent; remain vigilant with safety precautions (closing doors, using a long lead instead of allowing off-leash freedom) while your puppy's behavior is unpredictable. Enjoy watching your puppy's personality shape and present itself as they settle into their adult disposition.

For Your Puppy: Be patient and understanding. Your puppy may be pushing boundaries and the behavior is not as "cute" or tolerable as it once was. He is now bigger and stronger; therefore more destructive. However it is extremely important to avoid extremes in your respose to your dog and to remain consistent. You are still building trust between you - and just as a teenage human does not always understand their emotional or physical response to some changes - neither does your dog (and on top of it, your dog does not speak English).

Note your puppy's triggers to this point and be aware of them. Remain calm and positive; your puppy takes his cues from you - whether you are deliberately signaling them or not. You may have to scale back to basics on some training goals, reassess expectations, or increase rewards where you had tapered off. Encourage even gradual progress; what might look like a small behavior to you is a feat for a puppy that is unable to self-regulate. Be consistent - even when your puppy is not. Ensure your whole family communicates to the dog the same way so that your intentions are clear.

Set your puppy up for success - not failure. This means removing temptations, safety hazards, or freedoms that are not appropriate while your puppy's behaviors are slightly more unpredictable than normal. Maybe you were able to trust him not to eat the remote on the coffee table up until now - but it might be a smart idea to move it out of reach if you see that he is taking his anxiety or energy out on objects that do not belong to him. Help your puppy make the right choices by setting the stage - and reward them when they make the right one.

Keep your puppy's mind engaged. While attention spans may be short - and training may not come as easy - your puppy is still eager to learn and to please. Try teaching him new games - like learning to pick up his toys and put them in his basket - you might even teach the toys by name. Simple things can build a dog's confidence and exercise their minds while learning to communicate with you and earn rewards.

Your puppy is physically awkward and clumsy. Growth spurts in humans are nothing compared to the near tripling of body size for puppies in just a matter of weeks and months. It's a smart idea to regularly engage your puppy in physical activities that help them refine their motor skills and build control over their gangly, growing bodies (which are soon to fill out!). Consider this a confidence building endeavor for your puppy. If your puppy has a lot of energy to burn, agility courses and classes are a great option to help your dog's development and get them tired at the same time. It's also fun!

+ Focus Areas for Training & Socialization

Continue to socialize. Yes, socialization is mentioned in every development stage as a critical exercise - because it is so important! Be aware of the fear imprint component of this stage; and as your puppy becomes more confident and curious - avoid overwhelming or "flooding" them. It is still important to take things slow - and on your puppy's terms! Again, never punish a fearful response. Praise confidence and provide support.

As you move through this phase and into maturity, you might find that your puppy needs less constant correction and more support and space to make their own choices. As mentioned above, set them up for success. Encourage problem solving and engage in confidence building activities for their minds and bodies. Just because some training can be more difficult or take longer to master during this period does not mean your efforts are futile! If your puppy can manage to "proof" cues during this stage, it is very likely to stick "for good".

If you've had your puppy in the home for a while now, they probably have good enough foundation in basic skills to start training on more complex tasks (if desired). However, you must remain vigilant with your puppy's newfound independence, curiosity, confidence, and reliance on instinct. For example, if you are practicing things like long distance recall during this stage - be sure to take extra care in managing the environment in the event your puppy doesn't come back (or runs away) when called.

A note on chewing: keep track of when (and what) puppy chews - and whether it is teething related or destructive chewing caused by boredom or anxiety. Be prepared with lots of good chew toys to redirect undesirable chewing. Always consult with your vet before using any kind of gum paste or gel.

+ Physical & Mental Development Occuring

Teething: Your puppy was born without teeth - and their first set (baby teeth) came in by the time they were about 8-10 weeks old. Around 6 months your puppy will start to lose his baby teeth to make way for his adult set. This second round of teething is more extreme than the first for a few reasons - your puppy has teeth (not just gums) to chew with during the uncomfortable process (RIP favorite shoes) and your puppy's baby teeth did not include molars which are coming in for the first time and tend to be larger and more painful. You might see a little blood in puppy's mouth - and in small amounts this is normal. Your puppy will often swallow or eat his baby teeth - this is also normal and relatively innocuous. By about 7-8 months most puppies are done teething and have a full set of adult teeth (the end is near for those of you reading this at 6 months). As mentioned above, keep track of when puppy chews - and whether it is teething related or destructive chewing caused by boredom or anxiety. Be prepared with lots of good chew toys to redirect undesirable chewing. Always consult with your vet before using any kind of gum paste or gel.

Coat: Your once fluffy puppy is now growing in his adult coat - starting down the spine. You might notice the hair become more coarse or wavy. Shedding (aka "Blowing) of the coat is normal. Enjoy watching your puppy's adult coloration settle.

Brain: Your puppy looks "all growed up" but is still emotionally and developmentally a child. Remind yourself of this as he is leaping over the sofa and spinning like a top in your kitchen.

Neuter/Spay: If you've got a male puppy he is probably starting to lift his leg while eliminating. Your female puppy may start to become more selective about other female dogs she plays with. Perhaps you've even noticed that your puppy really likes to... erhm... take piggyback rides with other dogs. These are all markers of your puppy's sexual maturation.

Depending on the gender of your puppy you will neuter or spay at some point during the adolescent period. While routine with relatively low-risks, this can be a traumatic procedure for your puppy mentally as well as physically. If your puppy is experiencing a particularly aggitated state during a fear period - try to arrange the procedure when he or she is feeling more confident (while not delaying too much) to avoid unneccessary trauma. Spaying or neutering will not change or fix your dog's behavioral problems or challenges - nor does it radically alter their personality.

Body: By the end of this stage your little puppy is not so little anymore. Be sure to follow feeding guidance from your veterinarian as your puppy starts to "fill out" to keep feeding amounts proportionate to his weight. As your puppy ages, you may decide to transition from feeding three times (or more) a day to two times a day. Note that puppy food is very nutritionally dense (and therefore high in caloric value); ask your veterinarian about the best time to transition your puppy to adult food to avoid problems with weight, joints, skin, etc.

+ Behaviors to Expect

You made it! Your puppy is on the tail end of adolescence or has recently emerged from it. Your dog's personality is settling and they are better able to self-regulate or employ self-control. Your dog is now full-size with adult teeth and coat - and you probably have a few grey hairs.

Your Dog:

• May be more turf protective or territorial
• May greet strangers, animals, objects, etc. by barking
• Is thinking freely and independently
• Might be slowing down a bit in terms of energy level
• Is refining canine social skills (e.g. deferring during play, possibly mounting, etc.)
• Reevaluating his place in some groups now that he is bigger, stronger, and more confident

+ How to Manage Behaviors & Support Development

Read your dog carefully. Now that his baseline behaviors have solidified a bit, it will be easier for you to identify when he is stressed, afraid, aggitated, etc. because you know what his "normal" looks like. Note that dogs are animals and some reactions or outbursts cannot be anticipated no matter how good you are at reading a dog's body language or how well you know the dog - prioritize safety first. Continue to monitor dog-dog interactions closely as play fighting may escalate to actual fighting. Watch interactions with children closely and ensure mutual respect. Reinforce how to greet strangers, ignore distractions, etc. Observe your dog closely for behaviors such as resource guarding and over-protectiveness. While not inherently negative, these responses need to be closely managed as to not escalate into aggressive behaviors. Consult your trainer if you start to see signs of being protective to a fault in your dog.

Continue to reward good behaviors and reinforce confidence and problem solving. Understand that just because your dog "knows better" by now doesn't always mean he "knows better". He is still a juvenile, and always an animal. Stay patient, consistent, and vigilant.

Enjoy the trust, bond, and skills you have developed together. This has been hard work for both of you - regardless of how much time you spent in puppyhood together.

+ Focus Areas for Training & Socialization

Continue to socialize your dog to new people, animals, environments, noises, etc. While the "impressionable" stage is largely over - keep in mind that your dog can still develop fears or negative associations at any time. Prepare your dog well in advance for big lifestyle changes (e.g. going back to the office, moving households, welcoming children into your family). He is now used to your routines and his sense of security is embedded in that predictability.

You may wish to enroll your dog in daycare, agility courses, scent work, etc. for enrichment opportunities. Old dogs (and yours is hardly old) CAN learn new tricks. Just because he is not a puppy anymore, doesn't mean he stops learning.

Embrace positive independence and confidence in your dog. He might not cling to you as much as he once did; this is a sign of a job well-done for a puppy parent. You have helped instill these qualities by providing consistency, security, and trust.

+ Physical & Mental Development Occuring

Your puppy is fully grown in terms of height and their growth plates are closing - but puppy may continue to "fill out" a little in terms of muscle tone and girth. Consult your veterinarian to help identify and maintain a healthy target weight from this point forward (especially as your dog's energy level decreases). Your dog's reproductive hormone production has decreased as a result of neuter/spay. Their brain is fully developed and their adult teeth and coat are long established.

+ A Note on Fear Periods

During these stages puppies may gradually become more fearful of situations, objects, and beings they once appeared to be accepting of. You may notice cautious behaviors such as puppy approaching people or objects tentatively, barking, lunging, growling, or even boldness. Fear periods are stages at which the puppy is more susceptible to feeling threatened. During this time, puppies are very sensitive to traumatic experiences and a single “scare” can be enough to affect the dog for its entire life. Puppies are likely to develop avoidance responses if subjected to physical or psychological trauma - especially during fear periods. However, it is important to note that puppies and dogs can become fearful of specific things at any age; fear periods are simply an extra-sensitive time in their development.

Fear periods often coincide with the time puppies are separated from their litter and/or mother and are sent to new homes. They also occur when the puppy is simultaneously learning to be curious and attempting to determine boundaries and standing within their social hierarchy. These are all opportunities to create negative associations that may become generalized - and must be monitored closely to avoid physical or emotional trauma that can be very difficult or even impossible to overcome.

It is important to emphasize low-stress handling in all situations and to not force or pressure your puppy into interactions. Remain calm instead of becoming anxious anticipating your puppy’s reaction to new things as you socialize; they feed off your emotions. Counter-condition by using treats, praise, play, or anything your puppy finds rewarding when you notice apprehension or fear. Don’t overwhelm your puppy as you socialize them to new environments, objects, animals, or people. Never punish a fearful response. Read more from AVSAB about having a positive veterinary visit for your puppy during this sensitive time.

Lastly, socialization is critical to your puppy’s development. Do not avoid socialization throughout fear periods in order to avoid making negative associations or having bad interactions. Instead, carefully manage situations and think through scenarios before introducing your puppy to something or someone new. Socialization is not simply exposure - and when done correctly, it is the best way to teach your puppy not to be fearful. Your puppy is who determines if an interaction was positive - not you, not your trainer, not the other dog, etc. Learn and watch your puppy’s body language closely for signs of stress or fear. Help manage their environment and mitigate threats - it is important that your puppy knows they can trust and rely on you in stressful or novel situations. Remember, your adult dog will largely be a reflection of their experiences in puppyhood and their relationship with you.

Because the first three months are the period when sociability outweighs fear, this is the primary window of opportunity for puppies to adapt to new people, animals, and experiences. Incomplete or improper socialization during this important time can increase the risk of behavioral problems later in life including fear, avoidance, and/or aggression. Behavioral problems are the greatest threat to the owner-dog bond. In fact, behavioral problems are the number one cause of relinquishment to shelters. Behavioral issues, not infectious diseases, are the number one cause of death for dogs under three years of age.

+ Housetraining

The two cardinal rules for house-training success.

1. Prevent Accidents. Supervise your puppy in the house. Use the crate when you’re not sure if your puppy is empty.

2. Reward your puppy for going outside - and use the same spot every time. Praise at the right moment (the second he starts “going") Reward with a treat after he is finished.

+ Mouthing / Puppy Biting

Puppies are little biting machines. They bite things that move, things that don’t move, each other, your hands...anything. Not only is this normal, it is an important part of their development. When puppies play, they learn from their playmates' yelps and body language when a bite is too hard. Overtime a puppy figures out how do use his mouth more gently (to inhibit his bite aka "bite inhibition") to keep play going.

Think about when your puppy is most likely to play bite and be ready to disengage from your puppy when they start mouthing. For example, if you are playing tug and the puppy bites (or bites too hard) stop the play. Your puppy will learn that biting ends play or does not give him the attention he wants.

+ Jumping

Tips for Keeping "Four On The Floor"

1. Teach your puppy what you want them to do first instead of jumping up. Teach your pup an alternative greeting behavior such as sit, lay down, or standing with stillness.

2. Don’t reinforce jumping with attention. Saying no, pushing away and eye contact are all attention to a pup.

3. Prevent jumping by managing your pup’s environment. “Park your pup“ with the leash under your foot so they cannot jump, or have him behind a baby gate when people come over he doesn’t get to practice bad behavior.

+ Leash Pulling

It’s best to walk a pup with a front clip harness.

There are many ways to stop a puppy from pulling. One easy way is to apply the “red light/ green light” method. As soon as your puppy pulls, and the leash goes tight, stop walking. Wait for the leash to loosen (even just a little!) and then walk forward. Be prepared to stop again if your puppy pulls so the leash tightens again. Your puppy needs to learn that a tight leash is a red light that stops the walk. A loose leash is a green light that means more walking.

Try practicing walking after your puppy has had some vigorous exercise.

+ Chewing

Chewing is normal and healthy puppy behavior.

Puppies do chew more, yes. Unlike teething in babies, it won’t peter out and eventually stop - dogs can enjoy chewing for their entire lives - just usually not as incessantly as when they are puppies. It is important to give your puppy plenty of allowed things to chew right away to get him hooked on those instead of your shoes and encourage good chewing behaviors.

Experiment to find out what your puppy prefers. Always have a mixed selection on hand and rotate different type of chewies to keep your puppy interested.