+ What is Positive Reinforcement or Rewards-Based Training?

Dogs repeat behaviors that are rewarding. "Positive" training is simply using rewards to train dogs. In positive training, the goal is to help the dog do the right thing and then reward him for it, rather than punishing him for doing the wrong thing. Rewards are withheld for undesired behavior.

Why does Lu's Labs require positive reinforcement training in their contracts? Simply put - it's best for your dog. Aversives are not more effective and they pose serious risks to your dog's physical, mental, and emotional welfare - in addition to eroding your relationship with your dog.

Positive reinforcement in dog training can go by many names: reward-based training, science-based training, force-free or pain-free training, etc. Regardless of the terminology, the general theory behind this line of thinking remains the same.

Positive-reinforcement teaching techniques use non confrontational methods to work a dog’s brain – rewarding positive behavior, establishing rituals and training actions that are incompatible with negative behavior, and lessening a dog’s anger and frustration – all while enabling the dog to feel good inside. Decision-making is influenced without the use of force, and the dog’s trust in the owner is not violated through threatening treatment.

"Pets trained using aversive methods were 15 times more likely to exhibit symptoms of stress than those trained using "positive" techniques and that training dogs with positive and humane principles was more effective and caused less stress and anxiety than training a dog using aversives such as physical punishment and equipment such as shock, choke or prong collars." The Truth Behind Positive Training

Help your puppy understand what they are doing "right" by using a marker system such as a clicker or your voice. Mark the behavior "yes!" or click and then reward. Precision timing is key! If he makes a mistake, the behavior is ignored, or acknowledged with a non-reward marker to encourage the dog to do something else.

+ Set the conditions: is your puppy ready to learn?

Training should begin in a quiet environment with few distractions. The chosen reward should be highly motivating so that the puppy focuses entirely on the you and the reward. Training just before mealtimes can increase your puppy's motivation.

Your puppy is not receptive to learning when he or she is overexcited, nervous, or overstimulated. Keep in mind your puppy has a short attention span; "formal" training sessions should be limited to no more than 10-15 minutes at a time no more than once or twice per day.

Integrating training into your everyday routines is a natural way for your puppy to learn and reinforce consistency. For example, having your puppy sit before opening the door or placing his bowl on the floor for mealtime - every time.

+ What Every Puppy Should Know

Training your puppy is more than just teaching good house manners for an easier coexistence - it is a safety issue. Training can quite literally save your dog's life or prevent serious injury.

Examples of standard cues that can keep your puppy safe are:

• Wait (e.g. at an open front door, before exiting a vehicle, at bodies of water)
• Stay (e.g. when there is no way to confine your dog and you need him to stay put)
• Recall (e.g. calling your dog to you to get him out of harm's way)
• Leave It (e.g. not swallowing a chicken bone found on the ground)
• Drop It (e.g. releasing a dangerous object from their mouth)

... and many more

AKC's Puppy Training Timeline Goals

AVSAB's Preventative Behavioral Care Guide

+ Training Is For Humans, TOO

So much of your puppy's learning is dependent on your participation and co-learning. The foundation of your puppy's training is your relationship with him or her - your ability to communicate and understand each other. In other words - it's personal. Your puppy is learning your individual body language, movement, routines, and tones along with everything you are "intentionally" teaching; just as you are learning their signs and signals and personality.

This is why it is so important to choose a trainer or facility that emphasizes your direct involvement in your puppy's training. Trainers and facilities that "do the work for you" (e.g. the trainer is doing most of the work with your dog instead of you - or board and train programs) are often not nearly as effective as you and your puppy learning with each other directly. In addition, you are missing out on a critical opportunity to build a relationship with your puppy that last a lifetime. Training is a bonding experience that helps establish trust and confidence between you and your dog - and it is a lifelong engagement. Your puppy will be learning for as long as he lives - and you should want to be a part of it!

Lastly - "Board & Train" facilities or programs should only be used as a last resort (i.e. dog is at risk of euthanasia for a behavioral problem) at the recommendation of a licensed behaviorist. You have no control over what happens at a boarding facility; one bad experience can ruin your puppy’s socialization. Many board and train facilities use force, fear, and pain (in addition to treats) to train dogs. This is very dangerous to a puppy’s emotional well being. Qualified trainers will help you with safe socialization exercises so single event learning can be avoided and the health and safety of the dog is maintained. Humane trainers do not use force, fear, or pain in their training methods.

+ Training Resources to Avoid

There are countless websites, videos, books, and other instructional materials available about training. Unfortunately, the world of dog training is largely unregulated - with no single certifying body providing oversight anyone can call themselves a trainer.

Your Lu's Labs-approved trainer likely has recommendations at the ready for further information - but if you are selecting resources for yourself, here are some things to avoid:

• Materials that promote aversives or aversive methods
• Trainers that advocate for a "balanced" approach instead of a positive-only approach to training
• Resources that are founded on "dominance" or "alpha dog" theory
• Trainers or Facilities that Use Weasel Words to Describe Their Dog Training

Read more from AVSAB on dominance and punishment in behavior modification.

Examples to AVOID

New Skete Monasteries / Monks of New Skete

Larry Krohn

Cesar Milan

Richard A Wolters

Michael Ellis / Leerburg

OffLeashK9

Robin MacFarlane

Ty The Dog Guy

It is important to be vigilant and to apply scrutiny when selecting training advise. With the rise of exclusively positive-reinforcement and rewards-based training, trainers and businesses that utilize aversive training methods have become savvy in disguising harmful techniques and approaches - making them sound less harmful or less invasive than they actually are. Additionally, be sure that claims of positive reinforcement are actually that - just because a trainer or facility does not use prong collars, shock collars, scruff shaking, etc. does not mean that their other methods of correction are purely positive (e.g. social pressure, invasio of space, verbal scolding). A good rule of thumb is anything that causes physical, mental, or emotional discomfort to the dog is aversive - not positive

Reputable Credentialing Organizations

• Karen Pryor Academy certified training partners (KPA-CTP)
• The Academy for Dog Trainers certified trainers (CTC)
• Canine Behavior Certified Consultants—knowledge assessed (CBCC-KA)
• International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (IAABC)
• Certified applied animal behaviorists (CAAB, PhD)
• Board certified veterinary behaviorists (DVM, DACVB)

Important note: No certification guarantees that a trainer or behaviorist uses only force-free, non confrontational methods. If you are unsure, ask what methods the trainer uses, specifically in regard to aversive tools such as shock, prong, or choke collars, intimidation, physical or social pressure.

+ For the Unconvinced

"Show Me The Studies"

"More Studies!"

"But The Professionals Say..."

"But The Experts Say..."

"No, No The Other Experts"

"... The OTHER Experts"

"Does It Really Work?"

"But I Tried It On Myself and It Didn't Hurt"

"Positive Sounds... Too Permissive"

"There Needs to Be Balance"

"He Has To Know Who Is The Alpha"

...Some More Studies

• There is a risk of an aggressive response with the use of confrontational methods (Herron, Shofer & Reisner, 2009). 31% of people who did an alpha roll, 39% who forced the dog to let go of something from their mouth, and 43% of people who hit or kicked the dog reported an aggressive response.

• If people use aversive training techniques, their dogs are 2.9 times more likely to be aggressive to a family member and 2.2 times more likely to be aggressive to a stranger outside the home than if the dog had been trained using reward-based methods (Casey et al 2014).

• Greater frequency of punishment is associated with an increased prevalence of aggression and excitability (Arhant et al 2010)

• Dogs trained to sit and walk on leash using leash jerks or tugs and pushing the dog into a sit position (negative reinforcement) showed more signs of stress (mouth-licking, yawning, and lowered body posture) than those taught with reward-based techniques. They also gazed less at their owner, suggesting the human-canine relationship is not as good (Deldalle and Gaunet, 2014).

+ What Is Not Positive?

"What a good reminder that 'positive reinforcement' is always, by definition, decided by the receiver, not by the ‘giver.’ " - Patricia B. McConnell, PhD, CAAB Emeritus

Rule of Thumb: Anything that causes physical, mental, or emotional discomfort to your dog is aversive and therefore not positive reinforcement.

Some obvious examples might come to mind:

• E-Collar / Shock Collar
• Prong Collar
• Hitting or Beating
• Alpha Rolls
• Scruff Shaking
• Dominance Downs
• Biting the Ears
• Smacking the Nose
• Choking / Restricting Airways

Some other techniques might not appear "so bad" or have "always worked" but can be just as damaging and traumatic to your dog (and your relationship with him)

• Rubbing Nose in Feces
• Physically Forcing a Dog into Position (e.g. Pushing Down on His Rear to Make Him Sit)
• Yelling or Screaming
• Jerking / Pulling on Leash ("Leash Corrections")
• Noise Machines (Barking)
• Citronella Collars (Barking)
• Spray Bottles
• Coin "Shaker" Cans

Here’s the thing: aversives may work, but they aren’t necessary. In many cases, they are simply inhumane. When considering which techniques or tools to use with your own dog, always ask yourself "Is this necessary?" More often than not, there is a better way.

+ Confused by Terms?

Positive reinforcement. Negative punishment. Negative reinforcement. Positive punishment... huh?

If you're doing advanced reading you may come across the following terms which are used to describe the Four Quadrants of Operant Conditioning. These might be confusing when we're talking about positive reinforcement training because the quadrants include terms with the word "positive" that are not actually positive. Positive in this sense just means the addition of something (including punishment), and negative the subtraction of something - not that the method is force-free or humane.

• Positive Reinforcement (+R) is adding a desireable stimulus (e.g. reward - treat, attention, play, etc.) to increase the frequency of behavior. A dog sits and gets a click and a treat. R+ methods are regarded as the most effective form of training because the dog creates a positive emotional response, achieving long-lasting results.

• Negative Reinforcement (-R) is removing an aversive stimulus to increase the frequency of behavior. A dog runs away from the handler and an electric shock is administered until the dog begins to return to the handler (removing the shock to increase the frequency of dog checking in). R- methods can increase anxiety and fear, which can lead to reactivity and aggression, and are therefore not recommended

• Positive Punishment (+P) is adding an aversive stimulus which will reduce the frequency of behavior. Spanking, shouting, or cutting off air supply through a choke chain can be examples of positive punishment. "But it says positive punishment... I'm confused" It's not positive. Using P+ methods relies on causing pain, discomfort, or another unpleasant sensation. This often results in an increase in anxiety, fear, reactivity, and/or aggression. While P+ methods can certainly achieve short term results, it does so by suppressing behavior and can create a negative emotional response. For example, a dog barks at other dogs, and we shock him each time he barks; he is now less likely to bark because it causes him pain, but he now associates the other dog with being shocked. This can increase fear and/or anxiety, leading to increased reactivity or aggression. We've also taught him that he shouldn't communicate his fear by barking; the next time he is afraid, he may jump straight to growling, snapping, or biting instead. In many cases in which a dog 'bites out of nowhere,' it is because he has learned that other warning signals do not produce the desired result - making the scary thing go away.

• Negative Punishment (-P) is removing a desireable stimulus to reduce the frequency of behavior. If a dog jumps on a person to greet them, and the person walks away when the dog jumps, negative punishment has been employed – that person is removing their attention to reduce the frequency of jumping in the future. Another example: We stop playing with a dog when he mouths us. Care should be taken when using P- methods to also redirect the dog to a behavior that we do want to see so that he can then receive positive reinforcement. Without this second step, the dog may become frustrated, experiencing an 'extinction burst' in which the behavior increases or escalates before it goes away.

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